How Do You Use Melasma Cream? With Tips To Get It Right!

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Author: Leila Tan

24 October 2024

Struggling with stubborn dark patches on your skin? You're not alone. Melasma, characterised by dark patches on the skin, is a common condition that affects individuals of various skin tones. This article will equip you with the knowledge and actionable tips to effectively manage melasma with the help of melasma cream. Understanding the intricacies of melasma and its treatment is crucial for anyone dealing with this challenging skin concern. In this article, we delve deep into the world of melasma cream, skin tone management, and effective treatments to combat this condition.

What is Melasma?

Melasma manifests as hyperpigmented patches, often appearing on areas of the face like the upper lip, cheeks, forehead, and chin. It's more prevalent in individuals with darker skin tones, although it can affect people of any ethnicity. Sun exposure and hormonal factors, such as pregnancy or birth control pills, can exacerbate melasma by stimulating melanin production, leading to dark spots and uneven skin tone. While anyone can develop melasma, certain factors can increase the likelihood of its occurrence:

1. Skin Tone

Melasma is more common in individuals with darker skin tones, including those of Asian, Hispanic, Middle Eastern, African, and Mediterranean descent. This is because they naturally have more melanin in their skin, which can make them more prone to hyperpigmentation.

2. Hormonal Factors

Hormonal changes play a significant role in the development of melasma. Pregnant women, in particular, are more susceptible due to the hormonal fluctuations that occur during pregnancy. This type of melasma is often referred to as "chloasma" or "the mask of pregnancy." Additionally, women who take birth control pills or undergo hormone replacement therapy may also be at higher risk.

3. Sun Exposure

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun is a major trigger for melasma. Sunlight stimulates the production of melanin, which can darken existing patches and contribute to the formation of new ones. Individuals who spend a lot of time outdoors without adequate sun protection, such as sunscreen and hats, are more likely to develop melasma.

4. Genetics

There appears to be a genetic predisposition to melasma, as it often runs in families. If a close family member, such as a parent or sibling, has melasma, you may be more likely to develop it yourself.

5. Gender

While melasma can affect both men and women, it is more common in women, particularly those who are pregnant or taking hormonal medications.

6. Cosmetic Procedures

Certain cosmetic procedures, such as laser treatments or chemical peels, can potentially worsen melasma if not performed properly or if adequate sun protection is not used during the recovery period.

7. Stress

Although the exact mechanism is not fully understood, stress has been implicated as a potential trigger for melasma in some individuals. Chronic stress can disrupt hormonal balance, which may contribute to the development of skin conditions like melasma.

4 Key Active Ingredients for Melasma Cream

1. Vitamin C

- Skin Brightening: Vitamin C is well-known for its ability to brighten the skin and improve overall complexion. It works by inhibiting melanin production, which helps fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation caused by melasma.

- Collagen Production: Additionally, vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis in the skin, which can improve skin elasticity and firmness. This is beneficial for addressing fine lines and wrinkles often associated with melasma-affected skin.

2. Tranexamic Acid

- Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Tranexamic acid has anti-inflammatory effects, which can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness associated with melasma.

- Pigmentation Regulation: It works by inhibiting the activation of melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing melanin. By reducing excess pigment production, tranexamic acid can improve skin tone and fade dark spots over time.

3. Lactic Acid

- Gentle Exfoliation: Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) known for its gentle exfoliating properties. It helps remove dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover and revealing fresher, brighter skin underneath.

- Dark Mark Reduction: By encouraging the shedding of surface pigmented cells, lactic acid can help reduce the appearance of dark marks and improve overall skin texture in melasma-affected areas.

4. Ferulic Acid

- Antioxidant Benefits: Ferulic acid is a potent antioxidant that helps protect the skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and environmental stressors. This protection is crucial for melasma-prone skin, as UV rays can exacerbate pigmentation issues.

- Even Skin Tone: By neutralising free radicals and supporting skin health, ferulic acid contributes to maintaining an even skin tone and preventing further hyperpigmentation.

Steps To Use it Correctly

Using melasma cream correctly is crucial to achieving optimal results. Here are general guidelines on how to use melasma cream effectively:

1. Cleanse Your Skin: Start by cleansing your skin with a gentle cleanser suitable for your skin type. Pat your skin dry with a soft towel.

2. Apply a Pea-Sized Amount: Take a pea-sized amount of the melasma cream on your fingertip. Using too much product can lead to irritation without enhancing effectiveness.

3. Apply to Affected Areas: Gently apply the cream to the areas affected by melasma. Avoid applying it to unaffected areas of your skin, as this can lead to uneven skin tone.

4. Massage In: Use gentle, circular motions to massage the cream into your skin until it is fully absorbed. Avoid rubbing or tugging at your skin, especially if it's sensitive.

5. Follow Instructions: Follow the instructions provided by your dermatologist or those indicated on the product packaging. This includes the frequency of application (usually once or twice daily) and any specific precautions or recommendations.

6. Sun Protection: After applying the melasma cream, wait for it to fully absorb into your skin before applying sunscreen. Sun protection is crucial when using melasma treatments, as UV exposure can worsen melasma. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, and reapply as directed throughout the day, especially if you're spending time outdoors.

7. Be Consistent: Consistency is key to seeing results with melasma creams. Use the cream as directed by your dermatologist, and be patient as it may take several weeks to months to see noticeable improvements in pigmentation.

8. Monitor for Side Effects: Keep an eye out for any signs of irritation, such as redness, itching, or burning sensations. If you experience any adverse reactions, stop using the cream. If side effects persist, talk to a doctor.

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3 Other Effective Options to Treat Melasma

1. Topical Treatments

Melasma creams containing ingredients like kojic acid, glycolic acid, azelaic acid, and retinoic acid can help reduce pigmentation and inhibit melanin production.

Kojic Acid: - How it Works: Kojic acid is derived from certain fungi and is known for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. By blocking this enzyme, kojic acid helps reduce the production of melanin, which in turn can lighten dark spots caused by melasma. - Benefits: It's particularly effective in targeting hyperpigmentation and can be used in various skincare products like creams, serums, and masks.

Glycolic Acid: - Exfoliating Properties: Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that works by exfoliating the skin's surface. It helps remove dead skin cells, allowing other skincare products to penetrate deeper into the skin. - Cell Turnover: By promoting cell turnover, glycolic acid can improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. This can be beneficial for melasma, as it may help reduce the appearance of dark patches over time.

Azelaic Acid: - Anti-Inflammatory Effects: Azelaic acid has both anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it useful for treating conditions like melasma and acne. - Reduction of Pigmentation: Similar to kojic acid, azelaic acid can inhibit melanin production, leading to a reduction in pigmentation and dark spots.

Retinoic Acid (Retinoids): - Cellular Effects: Retinoic acid, a form of retinoid derived from vitamin A, works on a cellular level. It can speed up the process of cell turnover, shedding older skin cells and promoting the growth of new ones. - Collagen Production: Retinoids are also known for their ability to stimulate collagen production, which can improve skin elasticity and firmness. This can help fade dark spots and improve overall skin texture.

However, people with sensitive skin should be cautious, as these potent agents may cause skin irritation.

2. Sun Protection

Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen: - UV Protection: Broad-spectrum sunscreen is designed to protect your skin from both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays can penetrate deep into the skin and contribute to premature ageing, while UVB rays primarily cause sunburn. Both types of rays can exacerbate melasma and darken existing pigmentation. - Zinc Oxide: Sunscreens containing zinc oxide are recommended for their excellent broad-spectrum protection. Zinc oxide is a physical sunscreen ingredient that works by reflecting and scattering UV rays away from the skin, providing effective sun protection without causing irritation in most individuals.

Protective Measures: - Clothing and Accessories: Wearing hats with wide brims, sunglasses with UV protection, and clothing that covers exposed skin can add an extra layer of protection against the sun's harmful rays. Opt for tightly woven fabrics that offer better UV protection. - Seeking Shade: Limiting direct sun exposure, especially during peak hours between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., can significantly reduce your risk of sunburn and melasma worsening. When outdoors, try to stay in shaded areas whenever possible.

3. Medical Interventions

Chemical Peels

Process: Chemical peels involve applying a chemical solution to the skin, which exfoliates the top layer (epidermis). This process removes dead skin cells, unclogs pores, and stimulates cell renewal.

Effects on Melasma: By exfoliating the skin, chemical peels can help reduce pigmentation and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. They are particularly effective for superficial pigmentation issues and can be customised in strength based on the severity of melasma.

Laser Therapies

Targeting Melanin: Laser treatments use focused beams of light to target melanin in the skin, breaking down excess pigmentation. Different types of lasers, such as Q-switched lasers or fractional lasers, may be used depending on the depth and extent of melasma.

Effectiveness: Laser therapies are often performed by dermatologists and can be highly effective for treating stubborn or deep-rooted melasma patches. They can also stimulate collagen production, further improving skin texture and tone.

Topical Medications

Hydroquinone: This is a common ingredient in prescription creams for melasma. It works by inhibiting melanin production in the skin, leading to a gradual lightening of dark spots.

Corticosteroids: These medications can help reduce inflammation and may be combined with other ingredients to enhance their effectiveness in treating melasma.

Combination Formulas: Dermatologists may prescribe customised creams or serums containing a combination of ingredients such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids, retinoids, or antioxidants. These formulations are tailored to your skin type and the severity of your melasma.

Combination Therapy

Combining melasma cream with laser treatments can yield better results, especially for stubborn melasma cases. Here's one that can help you with melasma and other problems such as uneven skin tones, regardless of your skin type: The PicoCure Pigmentation Removal Treatment. This is a favourable option for combating melasma due to its non-invasive nature and several beneficial characteristics:

- Non-surgical and painless, ensuring minimal discomfort during the procedure and avoiding skin damage commonly associated with invasive treatments. This makes it a gentle yet effective choice for achieving an even skin tone. - PicoCure Pigmentation Removal Treatment from Perfect Medical yields significant reduction in dark spots, with visible improvements often observed after just one session. Over time, as the shattered melanin undergoes metabolic removal, the results become even more pronounced. - Prevent rebounding pigmentation, unlike traditional methods that may lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. By rapidly shattering melanin without causing side effects, it ensures long-lasting results without the risk of pigmentation issues recurring.

The PicoWay laser's targeted approach allows it to address tiny pigmented lesions precisely, without affecting the surrounding skin. This precision enhances its effectiveness while minimising impact on unaffected areas. Furthermore, its sustainability is noteworthy, as it is designed to prevent rebounding pigmentation, ensuring long-lasting results. It has also been recognized with the "US Best Picosecond Technology" title and is FDA-cleared, underscoring its safety for sensitive skin, painlessness, and low risk of complications.

Closing Thoughts

While melasma cream alongside other treatments can be a powerful tool in fading discoloration, remember that consistency and sun protection are key. Talk to your preferred option's professional so you can get personalised guidance, as well as achieving a clearer, more even complexion in no time!

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FAQ

1. What are some topical agents commonly used in melasma treatment?

Topical agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, and azelaic acid are commonly used in melasma treatment. These ingredients work by inhibiting melanin production, which is responsible for dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Hydroquinone is a well-known skin lightening agent that blocks the enzyme involved in melanin production. Kojic acid, derived from fungi, also inhibits melanin synthesis by chelating copper ions necessary for melanin formation. Azelaic acid has both antimelanogenic and anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective for treating melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

2. How does hormonal birth control affect melasma and the skin barrier?

Hormonal birth control, especially oestrogen-based contraceptives, can influence melasma due to their impact on hormone levels. Oestrogen can stimulate melanocyte activity, leading to increased pigmentation. Progesterone, another hormone in some contraceptives, can also contribute to melasma by promoting blood vessel dilation and increasing melanin production. These hormonal changes can disrupt the skin barrier, making it more susceptible to pigmentation issues and UV damage.

3. What role does collagen production stimulation play in achieving an even skin tone?

Collagen is a key protein responsible for skin elasticity and firmness. Stimulating collagen production can help improve skin texture and contribute to a more even skin tone. Ingredients like vitamin C and retinoids are known collagen boosters. Vitamin C promotes collagen synthesis and also has antioxidant properties that protect the skin from oxidative stress, which can lead to uneven skin tone and pigmentation. Retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A, increase cell turnover and collagen production, resulting in smoother and more even-toned skin over time.

4. How can protective clothing help prevent epidermal melasma?

Epidermal melasma is often triggered or worsened by UV radiation. Protective clothing, such as wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and clothing with UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) ratings, can provide physical protection from UV rays. This reduces the risk of melanin production and hyperpigmentation triggered by sun exposure. Wearing protective clothing, along with applying broad-spectrum sunscreen, is crucial for preventing melasma and maintaining skin health.

5. What are some effective strategies for maintaining a healthy skin barrier while using skin lightening agents?

Skin lightening agents like hydroquinone or retinoids can sometimes compromise the skin barrier, leading to dryness, irritation, and increased sensitivity. To maintain a healthy skin barrier while using these agents, it's important to use gentle cleansers that do not strip the skin of its natural oils. Moisturisers containing ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and fatty acids help restore and strengthen the skin barrier. Additionally, incorporating antioxidant-rich serums and avoiding harsh exfoliants can support skin health while targeting pigmentation issues.